His YouTube Channel is here - YouTube Allan Walls Photography If you prefer written material his articles are extensive, detailed and contain a lot of example photos. He even has face off with Helicon Focus and a lot to say about that. When you click the link above just search for Zerene. If you are doing a lot of stacking or have been looking to get better with Zerene, it’s worth the time to watch most of his material. I think I just searched for Zerene tutorials and found the highly proficient and very dryly funny Allan Walls at Allan Walls Photography.īy watching his videos I’ve learned a lot of time saving tips, techniques and workflow ideas that have improved my images and shortened my editing time. OMG - I was slabbing or creating sub-stacks, but in a manual way not knowing Zerene can do it for you with more automation and flexible settings. A couple of times in the past I’d sent smaller batches of photos to Zerene, stacked them and sent the output files back to Lightroom and then sent those back in to be stacked. Retouching can become even more time consuming by having to hunt through a ton of source images to find the one with the bit of detail I need. One of my frustrations was with image stacks of 20 and higher. Your really nice stacks are encouraging.After about 2 years of working with Zerene Stacker and feeling comfortable with it, I started looking for more advanced options and techniques to see if I could speed things up and get better stacks. I've not yet gotten around to focus-stacking but it is on my short list. Good luck and happy shooting!Very nicely explained without a lot of fluff. Stacker:docs:tutorials:stackselectedfortransparentforeground =transparent&s=foreground For starters, you can avoid situations like this that require more work to get good results: When starting out (that's how I classify myself) you can make the learning curve less steep by the subjects you choose. Tedious retouching is not always necessary. If you're into the 100's do yourself a favor and stack jpegs. To do this you’ll be turning the focus ring on your 35 mm macro in a clockwise direction as you’re facing the rear of the camera.įinally, I stack with 16-bit tiffs for best quality, but I'm not stacking that many files. Take a series of shots starting with the closest detail and progressing outward. Meter for exposure then switch to manual exposure to lock settings. Return the focus to the closest detail you want to be in focus.Ħ. The best range is f/5.6-8, with the best overall sharpness at f/8.ĥ. If not, open the aperture and take test shots until satisfied with the background blur. Check that the background is sufficiently blurred. Take a test shot with the furthest detail in focus that you want in focus. Due to focus breathing the scene will zoom out as your focus further away.Ĥ. Compose the shot at the closest focus distance (ie with the nearest detail in focus). Set white balance with a white or gray card.ģ. Set the camera at ISO 200, f/8, and aperture priority exposure. ![]() Set up the camera on a tripod with remote shutter release and two second delay.Ģ. This was in the neighborhood of 12-14 or so:įinally, here's my procedure for focus stacking with my DA35 macro, so I don't have to reinvent the wheel every time or mess up some detail and have to go back and re-shoot the stack.ġ. ![]() Here are my examples, all relatively easy subjects to stack (I was at work yesterday, and couldn't get the links). ![]() Then build from there with more complicated attempts. Pick subjects that are relatively flat that don't have lots of overlapping structures to begin with. Looks like picture clean up will be required with any of these stacking programs, and the learning curve is steep.Tedious retouching is not always necessary.
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